Carrying out what’s been a consistent theme for all trend and color stories, Fashion Snoops is forecasting a Spring/Summer ’19 season that’s about refuge and finding a way to counter all that the global landscape has thrown at us of late.
Colors will soften and revert to nature, while silhouettes too will soften, lending themselves to less harsh lines and embracing greater comfort.
At the trend direction seminar at Sourcing at Magic Monday, Fashion Snoops’ creative director for women’s wear Melissa Moylan, outlined four key trends for the next spring/summer season, and the desert will play a starring role.
Mesa
Leveraging the dry desert landscape as a point of reference, the Mesa trend story embraces a lot about the American Southwest. It takes cues from artist Georgia O’Keeffe, highlighting dried bones, graceful canyons, red clay, antlers, florals.
“It’s a desire to seek solitude among so much that’s going on in our lives,” Moylan said.
Colors: Copper Rose, Mesa, Adobe, Bold Toffee, a Rose Water pale pink, Terracotta, Dichotomy Red, which takes on a more bright pink feel, and yellows will be key and browns are making a comeback in more mud brick hues.
Materials: Cool wool, watercolor effect, dip dyed suede, crochet knits, silk and printed patchwork.
For women’s, this trend is about searching for deeper connections, embracing wanderlust and the nomadic journey.
Design details: Embroidery, feathers that will add a point of differentiation from fringe, soft ruffles and twisted or knotted techniques.
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Patterns/graphics: Sunrise and sunset inspired prints and macro blossoms a la Georgia O’Keeffe.
Core items: Matched sets, long shirts, wide leg pants or culottes, the slip dress, which “definitely continues to move forward” in any hemline and with new wrap and twisted motifs to set it apart from previous seasons. The shirt dress will be key, as will twisted tops, maxi dresses and skirts in diaphanous materials and the Bermuda short in fabrics like suede.
Accessories: Slip on shoe with whip stitched detail, top handle bags with reptile or python, mod frames with square shapes, raffia visors, wrap around belts.
For men’s, the desert will also serve as a sort of refuge. Patterns and graphics will showcase things like photo realistic imagery of the desert. Core must haves include the dunes jacket, Mojave suit, mirage shirt with zip front detail, Yuma shorts and the painted desert Henley. Active sandals with nylon webbing and the classic tennis shoe will be key for footwear, and straw caps and round aviators will round out the look.
Suburbia Disturbia
Surreal small town imagery serves as the basis for the Suburbia Disturbia trend, which embraces the suburban lifestyle but looks past the seeming normalcy to uncover what lies beneath.
Colors: Pistachio, Astro Turf, Yolk and Maraschino Cherry.
Materials: Vinyl, retro denim, distorted mod, silk rib knit, terrycloth, and chaotic conversationals.
For women’s, this trend is about everyday life and the domestic goddess.
“There’s definitely that 50s-60s housewife, so a lot of mid-calf silhouettes, cheery pastels, plaids and checks,” Moylan said.
Design details: Things here will be a little bit offbeat with elements of kitsch, different types of cutouts that are unexpected, pleats and bows that are a little more feminine
Patterns/graphics: Layered checks will be key.
Core items: Trench coat, the midi dress, the matched set in patterns “that really speak to this retro notion,” the polo for cut and sew knits, the camp shirt in a more boxy shape, the A-line skirt with wrap styling, the pencil skirt and the Bermuda short with contrast panels.
Accessories: Slingbacks with asymmetric slide ruffles, top handle bags with a triangle shape, contrast buckles, neckerchiefs in silk taffeta, fingerless gloves, headbands and menswear socks.
For men’s, situational dressing is big again, according to Moylan, and looks will conjure up nostalgia for the 50s. Contrast collars will play a role, as will worker shirts with embroidered names and tromp l’oeil tops. Patterns and graphics will be about retro, cheeky messaging and new takes on vintage geometrics. The bomber, the banker suit with chalk stripes, polo inspired short sleeve sweaters round out the core items, while oxfords with exaggerated whip stitching fabric band watches and round sunglasses will accessorize the trend.
Silicon Society
This trend is all about the “rise of the refined neo nerd culture,” Moylan explained. Silicon Valley and its slew of tech startups, the entrepreneurial spirit and streamlined design should come to mind.
Colors: Silicon Grey, Corporate Blue, Catalyst as a new, more saturated, base green, Sepia, Woke, which serves as a golden orange and warm neutrals.
Materials: Tech patchwork, laser cut silk, paperweight cotton, sloped grid, durable nylon and acrylic knits.
For women’s, this trend speaks to the notion of a women at peak achievement; an innovator tapped into the latest technology.
“We like to think of her as the female version of Elon Musk,” Moylan said.
Design details: With power suiting back, strong shoulders will reemerge, pleats and slits will make an appearance, as will twisting and knotting incorporated into tailoring, and contrast athletic trims.
Patterns/graphics: Technical repeat patterns that are clean and modern and color blocking chevron so that it’s more directional.
Core items: The power blazer, oversized shirt, the trench coat set to transparent material, a pared down parka for more minimalism, also in transparent materials, asymmetric skirts and track pants that play into a wider, more voluminous silhouette.
Accessories: Minimal strap pumps with mesh, corset belts, choker scarfs, and opera gloves in vinyl.
For men’s, this trend looks at how technology is incorporated into our daily lives and how workwear influences menswear.
“We’re trying to get a sense of the ‘new uniform,’” Moylan said.
Ad-ons like ID tags, kangaroo pockets, plastic pockets, industrial stripes and stitched pockets will highlight the trend. Patterns and graphics will channel blueprints, assembly lines, the matrix and black and white contrasts. For core items, expect to see the engineered suit with pieced construction, the IBM sweater, “which is basically the cardigan” but with woven contrast details on the sleeves, and the data shirt. The slide sandal, nylon backpack and smartwatch serve as accessories.
Origins
The Origins trend calls on a renewed reverence for indigenous tribes and different cultural traditions.
Colors: Earthy greens will be a heavy influence—Algae will serve as a more neon green while Eucalyptus and Lilypad stay on the more natural side. Maize will be the trend’s yellow highlight.
Materials: Rustic wovens, tropical interest, dotted tradition, tribal embroidery, and natural dyed knits.
For women’s, this trend is about a spiritual awakening, according to Moylan.
Design details: Embroidery with a more cultural and ethnic slant, drawstrings, fringe and knotted details, and micro dot patterns.
Patterns/graphics: Mystical skies for screen prints and graphics, plus images of the moon.
Core items: Twisted top with center cut out, puff sleeve blouse, the camp shirt set to a print, matched sets, wrap dresses with asymmetrical hemlines, the parka, the midi skirt with open slit detail, and the bomber jacket with a jacquard or pattern application.
Accessories: Ankle wrap sandal, bucket bag with mixed materials and graphics, circle frames, raffia hats, scarf belts with color blocking, embellished socks and really oversized chandelier earrings.
For men’s, this trend speaks to magical relics, and heads more to Australia as a geographical reference.
“It’s less about the bold colors and more campground classics,” Moylan said, adding that it’s about an authentic connection to the world and the tribes around us.
Tribal piecing, hood flaps and tech toggles will show up in design details and hieroglyphics will be apparent in patterns and graphics. Core items include the ritual jacket with native tribal motifs, the mechanical suit, the crafted Outback sweater, pullovers with zipper details and the painted hill pant. Strappy sandals with knotted or braided ankle closures, casual totes and coin pendant necklaces accessorize the trend.