For fall and winter, womenswear will take a turn for the unexpected: oversize will be big, colors will be bold and prints and patterns will be offbeat and unfamiliar.
At Sourcing at Magic Monday, Fashion Snoops women’s fashion director Melissa Moylan presented six trends that will shape women’s apparel and accessories for Fall/Winter 2017/18.
For Code, think what Demna Gvasalia did for Vetements.
“It’s a new approach, almost about breaking fashion from collections into more autonomous elements,” Moylan said. “It’s about antiestablishment, empowerment.”
Colors: Poppy red, trophy yellow and magenta, with base colors including pea green and a more drab olive. Base tones are blue ash, a steely blue, sharkskin grey and trench coat khaki.
Materials: Utility comes into play here with twill, cotton sheeting, nylon jersey, fleece, vintage washes of denim and wool for outerwear.
Graphics: Screen prints will be key and graphics will come with verbiage like, “Why not now?”
Design details: All about large proportions, exaggerated shoulders are coming back, deconstructed elements, interesting ties on hems, raw edge hem denim items.
Key items: Anoraks and parkas will be trans-seasonal, oversize coats in wool with dropped shoulder, the bomber is a favorite though it will come with unexpected shiny materials. Sweatshirts will start making a fashion statement, hems on skirts and dresses will hit mid-calf, sweaters will come in mohair, shirts will start to have zip fronts, and pants will be baggy fit.
Accessories: Statement beanies, mismatched earrings and a sneaker boot that adds a combatant attitude.
Individuality is most apparent in Precious Oddity, which nods to consumers’ desire to own items they don’t see everywhere else.
“It’s quirky, it’s a mashup, almost like a chic grandma aesthetic,” Moylan said, adding that it’s about wearing pieces together that aren’t supposed to be worn together, as well as channeling pajama dressing and loungewear influences.
Colors: A mix of greens and golds, darker shamrock green, ivory, spicy mustard, autumn orange, cinnamon as your brown, indigo that’s rich and saturated and carnation, which breaks into the palette as a pastel.
Materials: Burnout, jacquard, Swiss dot, rib knit, velvet.
Graphics: Unexpected ditsy florals, mirrored prints, insects, birds, patchwork patterns.
Design details: Really plays up the pretty aspect with pretty collars, self belts, robes, bow tie necks on woven blouses and pleats.
Key items: Pajama shirts, bow blouses that are either more structured or more relaxed, oversized shapes for sweaters with embellishments, dusters, button front mid-calf skirts, wider trouser-like pants, culottes, bomber jackets, oversize fur coats.
Accessories: Quilted cross body bag, tennis shoes with embroidered florals for a more delicate look and socks that are velour or sheer.
This Beaux-Arts meets Bauhaus trend, called Intellect, is about abstract, vintage and retro to the tune of the 70s.
“It’s a bit more about less polished perfection but a little more awkward,” Moylan said, adding that the look takes inspiration from furniture movements, interiors, retro colors and geometrics.
Colors: Potters clay, cinnamon as brown, dusty cedar red color, trophy yellow leveraged as an accent balanced with khaki as a neutral and rounded out with an unexpected ballet pink.
Materials: Outerwear special fabrics like herringbone, tweed, wool felt and lurex for metallic feeling and mohair for sweaters.
Graphics: Blocked themes, shapes we haven’t seen before that are a little more organic, vintage ’70s notions and revived repeats borrowed from different types of patchworking.
Design details: Great closure options, zip front detailing, snap front detailing, patchwork motifs, blocked motifs, fur trim, side slits.
Key items: Bow blouses done in patterns with extra long sleeves that add difference, mock neck sweaters, mid-calf slip dresses, chunky cuff pants, culottes and flared pants.
Accessories: Mixed media gloves, squared bowler bags, mid-calf boots with chunky heels.
Named for the book “Dispatches” by Michael Herr, Dispatch captures the spirit of wartime Vietnam with ethnic motifs, traditional patterns like batik, block printing and a great fusion of East meets West, according to Moylan.
Colors: Military or utility influence in pea green, drab olive, balances of blue like steel blue and lighter blue ash, spicy mustard or brittle, cinnamon as brown and autumn orange as an accent.
Materials: Pebbled leathers, wool felt for outerwear, satin-washed silk, nylon, quilted materials.
Graphics: Geared toward ethnic influences, calligraphy motifs, expanded camouflage that’s more abstract and borrowed from nature.
Design details: Military influences, braiding, epaulets, brass buttons, patches, embroidery details, raw edge on hems.
Key items: Outerwear a major focus with traditional notions of military like trench coats, parkas with cargo pockets or a drawstring waist, utility shirts, tunics with embroidery, poncho, cargo pants with relaxed fit, coveralls with snaps down the front and column dresses in caftan styles with wider sleeves.
Accessories: Headscarves with patterns, statement cuff with braiding and metal details, cross body bag, combat boot with buckles.
Runaway Roadtrip nods to the slightly younger consumer, channeling a story of girls on a roadtrip in the American southwest and the finds they would uncover at stops along the way like thrift stores, roadside diners, small town Main Streets.
“It’s all about one -of-a-kind, local pieces,” Moylan said.
Colors: Pony camel, butter cream, stone grey, dusty cedar for red and Americana elements with blue ash, teal influenced blue and periwinkle.
Materials: Rugged leather, suede denim, chiffon, satin, intarsia knits, patterned furs.
Graphics: Elements include neon signage, Route 66 and Western influences, psychedelic, pop, revamped traditional elements in unexpected colors.
Design details: Fringe, embroidered details, lace up closures, raw edges for denim.
Key items: Yoke front shirts in satin or velvet, or yoke contrast details in sweaters, blouses with higher Victorian necklines, intarsia print sweaters, A-line skirts with studs and overstitching, slim pants in more rugged materials and culottes.
Accessories: Headscarf with cowboy print and saddle bags played up with embroidery or hardware.
As its name implies, Ritz is all about the dark glamour of the Art Deco days.
“Think jazz clubs, theaters,” Moylan said. “It’s a very elegant expression. It’s about less confined silhouettes, more liberated, stylized patterns that are great for holiday.” Intricate beading and embellishment will also ground this high-on-drama, mysterious aesthetic trend.
Colors: Jewel tones like plum and ivy, soft gold for the metallic, dried rose pink and bisque and stone for neutrals.
Materials: Chiffon, tulle, lace, satin, burnout materials.
Graphics: Graphics are decadent, borrowing from Art Deco but with more fanciful motifs, wallpaper motifs, Hollywood romance, lines from Art Deco architecture.
Design details: Plunge necklines, fur contrast trim or collar, robe styling with kimono sleeves, tassels, feathers as trim and beads or sequins.
Key items: Victorian blouses, ruffled blouses, blouses with flutter sleeves, dusters, classic cardigans, mid-calf dresses, slip dresses with embellishment or trim details, dirndl skirts and overcoats in jacquard or brocade.
Accessories: Floral crowns, top handle bags with vintage-inspired jewel details, high-heeled sandals.