For Fall/Winter 2020, fashion trends will be focused on value over volume, and pieces that speak to both sustainability and the “stewardship of stuff,” as MintModa founder and creative director Sharon Graubard puts it.
It will be a season centered on three values, she said during a trend presentation at Texworld USA Wednesday: quality, cherished items and protection—particularly of the environment.
Consumers want “fewer things and better things” from their fashion, Graubard said. They want things that last, that can become heirlooms even. And they want things that protect the world from the harm they now know fashion to cause. “This is about nature and the whole cycle of what your fibers are,” Graubard said.
Here are the six key trend stories, or “Trend Tales,” as Graubard calls them, for the FW 2020 season.
The Bougie Behavior trend story, as its name implies embraces the bourgeoisie—but with a new twist.
“Some people are saying the bourgeois look is a throwback and it’s all conservative and it’s prim and proper and I don’t believe that. I don’t think it’s a throwback, I think it’s something moving forward,” Graubard said. “It’s embracing of status symbols for all customers, it’s democratic, it’s influencing streetwear, it’s the whole mashup of Dapper Dan and Harlem meets Gucci.”
Here, the look can be described as well-mannered 70s classics for a new generation, with a key interest in work appropriate clothes.
Colors: The palette, as Graubard calls it, is “the absence of black.” As alternatives, oxblood and dark green deepen the range from Color Atlas by Arcrhoma, and “rust is a key color.”
Fabrics and details: Silky satins and chiffons, intarsia knits, suiting weight fabrics, wide wale corduroys, yarn-dye checks and plaids, pure wool or blends, leather, shearling, fleece.
Prints and patterns: Plaids, logo elements, paisleys and foulards, argyle prints or knits, reptile prints, geos, chain prints, horse & bit motifs, fair isles, animalia, checks and diamonds.
Styles and silhouettes: Bow blouse, printed shirt dresses, narrow flares, bell bottoms, culottes, midi skirt, outerwear cape, tailored coat, turtlenecks. “We’re seeing a lot going on with the yoke,” Graubard said. And, she added, “The coat is the new jacket.”
Denim: “For denim, it’s classic cut denim, an A-line skirt, boot cut jean, a lot of that classic mid-wash blue for denim,” she said.
Accessories: Mid-size handbag, a lot of hardware, keys, horse bits, silk scarf—“We’re having a big scarf moment,” according to Graubard.
Footwear: Block heels, stylish loafers, snake-skin boots, cozy over-the-knee boots. “It’s warm tones for footwear and accessories,” she said.
For Tailor’s Table, it’s all about the celebration of tailoring and dress making.
As Graubard put it, “It’s bespoke precision meets dressmaker drapery in experimental ways.” It’s also about seaming. “Shoulder seams will be set in a fresh way. It’s a little bit Dior, it’s a little bit Comme des Garçons.”
The trend speaks to tailored interests just as much as tailored clothing.
Colors: “The palette is a play on menswear,” Graubard said. Blues dominate the color story, accented by grey and brown, both cooled down in keeping with the blues, and a bluish red is the standout.
Fabrics and details: Nubby tweeds, delicate lace, fineline twills, smooth flannels, fluid suitings for draping, silky blouse weights, jacquard knit or double knit. “It’s menswear in these fluid ways,” she said. “Maybe it’s a raw edge on a blazer.”
Prints and patterns: “For print and pattern it’s a play on black and white,” Graubard said, with the color combo finding its way into chain prints, modern toiles, graphic line work, houndstooth, broken stripes, op art prints, pinstripes, windowpane checks, flat unfussy florals.
Styles and silhouettes: Recut blazer, a dress in menswear fabric, wide leg trousers, draped dress, snug sweater, below-the-knee skirt, something toile, neutral fair isle sweater, easy pantsuit, reefer coat. “It’s taking menswear but having fun with it,” she said.
Denim: Asymmetric cuts, wrapped effects, moto inspirations, patch pockets, clear twills, over-dyed dark or allover acid wash. “For denim, it’s more piecing. Piecing the denim with menswear materials,” Graubard said.
Accessories: Statement jewelry, shorter necklaces, the initial necklace, cloche hat, the top handle bag as the new briefcase.
Footwear: Patent loafers, lace-up oxfords, sturdy boots. “It’s tailored footwear taking a cue from menswear. We’re not showing a lot of big high heels. If it’s a heel, it’s a clunky heel.”
When it comes to Marvel Noir, the story will be all about the femme fatale heroine.
“It’s alluring film noir siren meets brash cartoon superhero,” Graubard said. “Futuristic movies take their cue from the ‘40s…we’ve mixed this film noir heroine with the Pulp Fiction novel.”
Here, it’s about Afrofuturism and dystopia, it’s a little luridness, it’s Janelle Monáe.
Colors: The palette is black and white, but it’s also “lurid tones,” like aqua, shocking pink, orange and “weird purple” as Graubard puts it.
Fabrics and details: Fluid silks, smooth jerseys, high-gloss patents or vinyls, stretch velvets, dense neoprenes, heavy satins. “The fabrics are slick and sticky and velvet,” she said. “They’re not cozy yummy.” Shoulder flounces will make an appearance, as will openings in sleeves for cape effects.
Prints and patterns: Blurred motifs, fetish imagery, winged insignias, vintage fashion illustrations, animal prints, graffiti prints, checkerboards, monster hands, classical sculpture, tattoo roses.
Styles and silhouettes: Graphic or printed top, pencil skirt, slim tailored trousers, shiny trench coat, cape or capelet, yoked top. “There’s a lot of action at the breastbone, whether it’s an opening or some kind of trim,” Graubard said. “This is not sweet, but it is sexy.”
Denim: Denim will come in shades of black, from washed and faded to super-black. The story will see charcoal washes, jeans will be doubled or high waist, hips will be clean without pockets and corset seaming will make an appearance. “Black denim makes a big comeback with white stitching,” she said.
Accessories: Dramatic sunglasses, top-handle bags mixed with punky spikes and superhero belts. The scarf around the neck will also be key.
Footwear: ‘80s-influenced booties, studded pumps, high-tech sneaker boots, for a mix of “vixen appeal and superhero energy.”
For the Terra Sport trend tale, it’s all about the fusion of outdoor and active—a pairing that’s taken hold of fashion this year.
“It’s looking at a lot of upcycled fabrics, also tried and true silhouettes cut in new ways,” Graubard said. “It’s the puffer, it’s silver, it’s all kinds of fabrics with new capabilities. It’s taking your cue from nature but using technology.”
Here, the idea is that technology is key to sustainability, and both are things today’s savvy consumer demands. The customer this story speaks to, according to Graubard, reads labels, whether it’s for her food or clothing.
Colors: An almost neutral bamboo yellow, khakis and olives, highlighted with turquoise and royal blue. “Blue is a new color mixed with all these greens,” Graubard said.
Fabrics and details: Recycled nylons, rib knit trims, blanket woolens or flannels, extra fluffy polar fleece, heavy cottons, tech synthetics, nylon mixed with cotton. “It’s about materials that protect against the elements while sustaining the Earth,” she said. “It’s giving tech fabrics a little homeyness in a way.” Details will see functional snaps, drawstrings and zips mixed with crafty touches, logo tape, cargo pockets, furs trims and snaps and grommets.
Prints and patterns: Texture prints imitate speckled stones, marble or leaves; camo-toned florals or swirls, tie-dyes, cozy plaids, buffalo checks, landscape toiles or etchings, camo intarsia knits.
Styles and silhouettes: All-weather trench or cape, sleek zip-up jacket, the modern duffel coat, something puffy or fluffy, cropped pants, all-weather topper, slouchy sweater, safari separates.
Denim: Denim will be washed in green or brown tones, the story will see coveralls return, and wax-coated denim will play up outerwear. “It’s the earth-washed denim, the browns and the pigment dyes,” Graubard said.
Accessories: Goggle glasses, return to nylon handbags, and puffy almost “pillow-like” handbags will be key, she said.
Footwear: Sneakers with a heavy sole, shearling boots, rubber boots, thick Vibram soles, molded uppers.
When styling for holiday, Magical Thinking will be the story.
“It’s a magical world where flowers grow in winter, sparkle is for day and underwear is for show,” Graubard said. “It’s a sense of fantasy, of pale color birds and nature. Almost doing springtime fabrics in winter.”
The feeling here, is a romantic one, and styles will be almost seasonless and summer silhouettes will come layered for winter.
Colors: The palette is tonal, with pinks and soft oranges, a kind of terracotta brown, plus purple, aqua, green and yellow.
Fabrics and details: Plush furs or fleeces, firm suiting weights, ribbed knits, lustrous satins, bright tweeds, dimensional jacquards in new colors. Details will include duotone fake furs, faceted crystals, sheer overlays, strategic cutouts, plastic heat-transfer text.
Prints and patterns: Arabesque swirls, painterly florals, butterfly motifs, multi-color stripes, abstract paintings, bright dip-dyes, poetic text, harlequin diamonds. “It’s crystal in surprising ways, like on a tie-dye top, lace in colors, florals on colorful grounds, florals on dark grounds, dip dyes in new colors,” Graubard said.
Styles and silhouettes: Bright cami or slip, fun fur coat, bright sweater, floral-printed skirt, fluid printed pants, colorful lingerie. “Just the colors are going to get you there,” she said. “Could be classic pieces like a trouser or blazer, but in these new colors.”
Denim: Glittery surfaces, printed coveralls, floral embroideries or appliqués, light washes, classic norm-core jeans silhouettes or straight legs. “We’re seeing decorated denim come back,” Graubard said. Milk washes and light-colored denim will be standouts.
Accessories: Hand-shaped earrings, neon-tinted furs, sparkly eye glasses, hair jewelry and big crystals.
Footwear: Casual shoes and boots with glittery surfaces, printed materials or surprising color. “This is the kind of customer that gets dressed from the ground up,” she said. “There’s a lot of print in the footwear, a lot of dye, even cowboy boots are studded and they’re jeweled.”
Gimme Shelter is the Fall/Winter 2020 season’s minimalism trend, where clothing will borrow from nature’s shapes and textures.
“It’s minimalism goes tactile in protective shapes that imitate nature,” Graubard said. “The aesthetic of this trend borrows from the ‘60s.”
Shapes and colors alike will have an organic feel for this story. It’s neutrals on top of neutrals.
Colors: “It’s kind of the beautification of beige, but it’s more than beige, it’s all of these tinted pales,” she said of the palette. Khaki and taupes are slightly warmed up by a beige-based lavender and a soft brown that skews warmer. On the cooler side, there’s a soft blue, a seafoam and an olive-hued yellow.
Fabrics and details: 3-D twills, dense jerseys, refined fleece, silky blouse weights, nubby or marled yarns, brushed or napped wools, padded or quilted surfaces, mohair or other hairy effects. “These fabrics look great in the compact wools and soft cashmeres,” Graubard said. Details will include mod straps and snaps, lettuce edges, toggle closures, knitted elements, bra details, drop shoulder seams and hidden closure self belts.
Prints and patterns: Figurative motifs, pencil drawings, wildlife illustrations, soft checkerboards, swirls, painted plaids, simple stripes, abraded or distressed effects, soft tie-dyes, forest creatures.
Styles and silhouettes: Funnel neck pullover, sleek puffer, clean trench or parka, clean-lined skirt or culottes, scarf-tie top, stretch tee, boxy pullover, slouchy pants, knit sets.
Denim: White or ivory denim, femme coveralls, paint-streaked white jeans, workwear sets, straight, flare or new rounded leg, contrast dark topstitching on white. “The key takeaway here is the white denim or the cream denim,” Graubard said.
Accessories: Cashmere chunky beanie, fortune cookie bags, soft folded bags, big drop earrings, cloche hat.
Footwear: Shoes and boots that are slipper-soft, supple leathers, quilted surfaces, sleek “birks.” According to Graubard, “Silver is a key metal with this trend.”