Men have morphed into quite the fashion savants of late, with a greater interest in what they wear and how it looks, their own New York Fashion Week and color and trend stories that speak to the new standout looks they seek.
The four trends for menswear for Autumn/Winter 2016/17 are: Method and Madness, Rest/Full, Nautilus, Equus Ferus.
Method + Madness
“He’s a curious collector, disturbingly informed about chemical reactions,” menswear creative director Michael Fisher said in setting the tone for the trend. His life is dripping with mystery, his overall approach is in uniform dressing, the idea of curated chaos, and also precision. “This is a new age, a very accurate and purposeful design for men, new version of minimalism that’s not so stark and white.”
The novel Dr. Mütter’s Marvels and the TV show The Knick are just some of the trend’s infleuncers.
“Everything is inspired by precision and surgery, precision cuts, pinking edges, anatomy, appliqué,” Fisher said.
Reds, blacks and cognacs are the crux of the trend in terms of color and details and accents like quilted underpinnings, transparent cuffs, stamped tabs, doctor bags and lab glasses are apparent.
Materials for Method + Madness are very technical, like sheer PVC, dense knits, weathered felt that’s been heavily washed and printed silks.
Patterns and graphics are a little darker, channeling chemical reactions and anatomy drawings with a vintage vibe.
Surgical shorts, boxy sleeves, zippered plackets, nylon appliqués and zippers will be key elements in the apparel.
“His style can be minimal but technical in a way, with basic oversized shirts, pants with paper bag waist, a little more pleated, a little more relaxed,” Fisher explained.
Packaging channels antique drug labels, apothecaries, 3D skulls and blood bags.
“This is all about really great sun-drenched afternoons on Sundays in your loft or your home in the country, that cozy feeling,” Fisher said. “The entire point of this trend is that you can literally wear your bed out day and night.”
Plush will be very prevalent, as will mid-century looks, pilly sweaters.
“This guy is an old soul in a new world,” according to Fisher.
The movie Inside Llewyn Davis and illustrations influenced the trend. (“The illustrator is kind of the new DJ in our world,” Fisher said).
Even stores are being set up to look more like homes, with “living room” type spaces, in-store cafés and the like to channel the trend.
Colors have a charming, vintage quality with soft acid, a gold color, sage, grey, crimson, blush pinks, iced mauves, chambray blues, indigo blues and a rust color, which Fashion Snoops said has been strong for several seasons.
Retro shoulder roping, oversized kangaroo pockets, fleece-backed quilted nylon and easy-going bags will be present and materials will return to things like a more plush corduroy, quilted fabrics, worn-in leather and down-to-earth tweeds washed for a softer hand.
Design details will include classic looks, V insets in sweaters, zip vents and pants that puddle at the ankles, and peacoats will be very oversized and almost cocoon-like.
Key items include the cocoon coat, with details like fur piping, oversized patch pockets, easy waists, jogger cuffs—“The jogger does continue for fall winter,” Fisher said. “By far it’s the best selling item for the men’s market – with quilted nylon body.”
Packaging should come in the form of things like cable knit bottles, paper and twine touches, literature and poetry influences and containers and soaps used for men’s grooming.
“This is all about utilitarian basics. Celebrating the anti-heros and archetypes of masculinity, the sailor, the astronaut, the sea,” Fisher said.
The trend speaks to the Jules Verne, Herman Melville types, and Verne’s novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea and the film about James Cameron’s Deep See Challenge served as inspiration for the trend.
Colors in the palette have a strong fusion of utility neutrals like indigo and olive, with fantastical brights, rust colors, coppers and oranges, and turquoise colors will also be key for the season.
“Copper and all of the other cork colors are really strong for men,” Fisher said.
Design details include, embroidered ID taping for seams, embroidered crest and appliqué, storm flap hoods, inside-out pockets.
Materials will be more rugged, like knotted canvas, and jersey overlay, felt scales and denim in a more marled, washed indigo will be apparent. The look will be layered and rugged, with a fusion of things like cotton and a synthetic like nylon.
Patterns and graphics are rooted in SciFi quality, calling on vintage comic books, maritime flag prints, drawn portraits and knots and ropes.
Key elements include sweaters, chain stitches, drop needle stitches, felt trim, shearling colllars, lobster claw closures and embossed ranking suits.
Packaging should have a little more SciFi quality, using or channeling glass sculptures, iridescent elements and sea form sculptures.
“This guy is very much about a dramatic journey,” Fisher said. “It translates to wild horse, perfectly weathered surfaces, the right amount of grandiose, a love letter to the formality of a bygone era of menswear.”
The movie Crimson Peak and Vanity Fair’s famous caricatures served to inspire the trend.
Colors are grand and stately, with gallery gold, oil black, neutrals with a sun-faded quality, fox hunt red, hunter green, and all are more expressive, though grounded.
Design elements include functional button flys, decorative stitching, embroidery for button holes, stripes on the bias, deep cuffs, decorative waists, cutaway silhouettes, riding boots, sweater scarves and printed collars.
Materials will be very rich and traditional with indigo velvet, denim suiting, waxed cotton, barnhouse leather, twine and stained canvas, with really thick gutsy piping for jackets.
Patterns and graphics are darker than the other trend stories and illustrated gallery walls, vintage tapestries, oriental rugs and textured collages will make an appearance as prints.
The look is dark but trying to update tradition, classic and cropped will be the way to go. Key elements include tapestry coats, oversized turtlenecks, tan leather trim, evening shirts with tonal panels and bibs and collar stays.
Packaging will channel smoke in mirrors, pewter finishes, waxed stamps, gilded letterings and typography.
Fashion Snoops said Method + Madness will be best for Pre-Fall, Rest/Full and Nautilus for Fall and Equus Ferus as a refresh for Holiday.
The 10 must-haves for men for fall winter are:
- The statement coat. Coats that come with fur trim, tapestry motifs, oversize statement prints and shearling along collar will be key.
- The city coat. This coat will be the most important for the season. It will be the gentleman’s classic overcoat that transitions from day to night with a silhouette that hits around mid-thigh, and elements like fuzzy textures, a wide self belt, color blocked lining and layered tipping/piping.
- The explorer coat. The update to the parka, this coat will come with utility pockets, shearling lining and exposed zippers and tapings.
- Turtleneck sweater. These will come in extreme marled textures and things like monochromatic intarsia.
- Slouchy sweater. With a nod to the comfort trend, these sweaters will have fuzzy hands, gutsy (read oversized) cable knits, dropped shoulders and hand pockets.
- Plush pant. Men will be wearing bottoms of wide rail corduroy, velvet, quilted surfaces, with tailored details, coin pockets and extended tab waists.
- Dapper pant. This pant will have strong statement creases and pleats, some asymmetric pleats, self belts, some cropped silhouettes and high waists.
- Utility shirt. Zip front plackets, band collars and zip front closure will decorate these shirts.
- Laid back suit. This suit is meant to feel like a favorite sweatshirt, with double breasted silhouettes, allover quilting and deconstructed details.
- Expedition suit. This suit is more rugged with pieced constructions, higher button stances, five-button jackets, graphic patches, taping and zippered pockets to the chest.
The season’s key colors are:
Rusted copper will be prevalent, pairing well with Turkish coffee, ginger and dark dawn.
Ginger will play a role alongside dark charcoal grey and olive green.
Shaded olives will be a more saturated way to do the color, working with dark charcoal grey and even white.
Turkish coffee will be “really strong for outerwear,” according to Fashion Snoops, matching with green-based greys and ivory.
Mulled wine will be “great for holiday” going back to brighter reds, like Fox Hunt Red, and indigo blues.
Peacock will go with golds and dark blues, and Spruce, a blue-based, more icy green will be big.
The season’s greys are updated like Folkstone, a grey with a little bit of pink tone to it, and Steel Blue, a green based grey that looks good with black. Brisk Pewter is another cold-inspired grey for the season and Smoked Ember, another green-based grey pairs with ivory colors.
Dark dawn is the navy for the season, pairing with red-based clay colors, and Shale, an update to charcoal will go with the coppery colors and gingers.
Ivory tusk will be great for the staple shearlings and goes good with wine colors, red-based browns and copper.