Fashion can’t escape what’s happening in the world whether it wants to or not, and for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season, textiles will look to balance all that’s been upended.
Ex-Aequo is the theme for fabric trends in the coming season, according to Texworld USA art directors Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud—it’s the idea that all things are of equal value and everyone can decide what is beautiful and what is true.
“The world has entered an unprecedented cacophony,” Gérin said at a Texworld USA trend presentation Wednesday. “Freedom and equality are no longer tempered by solidarity, but are exacerbated by individualism.”
Textiles will fall into four trend stories for AW 18-19: Obviously common, Broken down number, Mixed Reasoning, In de-complexed exclusiveness.
Obviously Common will be about soft, cool colors and rejecting what has been standard both in color, pattern and mood.
“Defects are exposed like good features,” Gérin said. “In reaction to elitism, we enhance all that comes from below. Without distinction. In mud we trust.”
Color: Urban Foliage, Concrete Recycling, Sedimentary Flow, Urban Fabric, Triple Softness, Powdered Coating, Morose Ceiling, Striped Horizon, Rough Uniform
Feeling: Urban stacking, repetitive patches, enriched engraving, highlighted underside, horizontal edges, infinite coiling, enameled everyday reality
Fiber: Honeycomb plastic, velvety erasure, contrasted transparency, shaded paper, molten filament, exposed layer, worn stone, cabled framework
Broken Down Number
This trend, Broken Down Number, channels creation over what’s become staid over time. Colors are richer and more primary compared to other palettes for the season.
“Humanity shot down hierarchies to crate a resolutely new world. To provide itself with new tools. New prospects,” Gérin explained. “It is out of the question to mix all the colors of this new pallet. Each one must exist to offer a new possibility.”
Color: Saturated Peel, Digital Supreme, Electric Slope, Subtle Decline, Virtual Abyss, Sparkling Fluid, Laminated Asphalt, Wooded Pixel, Building Bloc
Feeling: Wooded intertwining, fragmented window, structured decay, cracked resin, contrasted camouflage, deformed ceramics, graphic pile
Fiber: Pixelated bead, recycled welding, vast stretching, pigmented stripe, tinted granite, highlighted grid, shifted interlocking, mixed texture, digital canvas
Individualism and playfulness make an appearance in Mixed Reasoning, with colors that are energized but muted.
“We do not want to be contradicted, but asserted. As we don’t have the power, we want to be right,” Gérin said. “Democracy has found its limit in individualism.”
Color: Chlorinated Radiance, Phantom Present, Hardened Lightness, Popular Ascension, Soothed Blood, Floral Birth, Masculine Veil, Metal Pigment, Luminous Simplicity
Feeling: Disturbed freedom, affixed hoop, distinct circle, reflective checkerboard, worn array, metal greenhouse, cartoon shrub
Fiber: Translucent fringe, ennobled embroidery, slack asphalt, rippling wave, arrow weaving, circular grid, changing aluminum, bodily knotwork
In De-Complexed Exclusiveness
Colors for In De-Complexed Exclusiveness follow heavily flesh tones and nudes, greens that are grounded and the earthy reds that could be found in nature. The idea here is that the individual, the consumer, has changed and wants textiles and clothing that cater to that.
“We are no longer recognized for our actions, but for how we stage them,” Gérin said. “Trivialization of old marketing methods. Our identity has become our greater wealth. Its maintenance hence dictates the urgencies of our world.”
Color: Carnal Pigmentation, Magnified Dermis, Interior Night, Delicate Wicker, Fragile Leather, Fair Albino, Clayey Make-up, Gilded Silver, Disbudded Life
Feeling: Incandescent mirror, ghostly elitism, existential border, lunar source, wooly audacity, revealed wax, haloed meditation, interiorized spiral, exacerbated center, smooth cane work, transparent shadow
Fiber: Gilded halo, luminous ray, invaluable selfie, tied up plumpness, separated gilding, enameled flesh, veiled net, reflective neon