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Age-Old Mills Still Making Jacquard For Womenswear

A raised design or pattern woven into a fabric, jacquard has largely been replaced in womenswear by the common digital print. Despite the laborious toil, a group of mills have kept the French manufacturing tradition alive; unmatched for its exquisite drape and extreme durability across feminine silk, cotton and wool.

Efilan

Founded in 1969, Efilan is located in Italy in Prato’s rich textile region. A producer of luxury and decorative fabrics for use in women’s apparel, Efilan refuses to focus on one specific type of fiber or cloth: they are known for their luxurious silks but also create soft cashmere and camel hair textiles.
Efilan reinvents new ways of doing things. Based in-house, a team of creatives analyse fashion trends and research the qualities of raw and synthetic materials, before developing new textile types and designs.
But it is the firm’s old-age production of jacquard that is their standout material for women’s wear. Both solid and yarn-dyed, jacquard plays a prominent part in seasonal collections. Developed in various designs, stretch fabrics are the most sought-after from Efilan, relaying them to suppliers.
From the Le Souk store, take a look at the exquisite gold metallic polyesters jacquard perfect for cocktail frocks, evening dresses and jackets. And for a more demure fabric, the onyx floral jacquard offers textural sweeps and bows without the brazen sparkle.
Malfroy & Million
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France’s Malfroy & Million was founded in 1939. Lead by Andre Malfroy and Jean Million, the Lyonnaise textile producer has remained a family owned and operated business since its debut.

As well as a luxury scarf range, Malfroy & Million is intent on creating seasonal fabrics for haute couture, women’s wear and home furnishing. Using silk as its cornerstone, other fabrics like cotton, wool, linen and cashmere are blended to create colourful tweeds, chiffon lurex and knitwear; be it flecked, felted or quilted.

Rhone Alpine finishers add an extra edge of century-old craftsmanship. This can be seen in Malfroy & Million’s winter collection: from stretchy jacquards to plush velour and velvets, luxuriously catered for women.

Browsing Le Souk, be sure to view the chocolate decadence of the jacquard tweed bouclette in wool polyester and acrylic, and the purple fleur jacquard – ideal for jerseys and blazers. Note the textural weave and its Fifties Chanel inspiration.

Berra Tekstil

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Located in Istanbul, Berra Tekstil produces some of the world’s finest cotton and cotton-blend fabrics in a variety of creative prints and color palettes. Innovative in design, the Turkish firm hone-in on making fun stretch cottons and dense cotton jacquards, which look and feel perfect for winter time apparel and coolish falls.

With the increase in Made In Turkey cloth and apparel, Berra Tekstil supports their weavers and ethical business practices fervently. Meanwhile, they know their suppliers intimately, reflective of the family approach to business in the Mediterranean nation in producing quality jacquards.

There are several cotton stretch jacquards available to shop on Le Souk. For statement garments, check out the Houndstooth-pattern cloth in ice green and black interlock weave or the leopard spot in black and red. In trend-savvy Marsala hues, the alma red jacquard is stunningly simple but elegant, working its way across upholstery and women’s casual suiting.

—By Benjamin Fitzgerald

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