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The Week In Fabric

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From beading to brocade, capsule collections to collaborative debuts, ‘The Week In Fabric’ gives back the must-know textiles and fashion information for the week just gone. It’s your official guide to womenswear, menswear, sportswear and interiors news.

The Court of Justice has ruled that Louis Vuitton’s famous checkerboard pattern cannot be legally patented, determined at a hearing April 21. The European Court, based in Luxembourg, labeled the print a, “commonplace figurative pattern that is basic and banal, since it consists of a regular succession of squares of the same size that alternate in color. This pattern demonstrates no notable difference when compared to conventional checkered patterns… The checkerboard pattern is something that has always existed.” The Court also noted that Louis Vuitton didn’t provide sufficient evidence that the design had a distinctive character when it filed for the patent in 1998 and again, in 2008. [FASHION MAG]

The first-ever Universal Milan Expo launched today—May 1, with the five-month event set to attract 20 million people. Giorgio Armani opened the event last night with a party marking its 40th birthday, with Ermenegildo Zegna planning an art and food project for Saturday. Gucci is sponsoring the “Il Principe dei sogni Giuseppe negli arazzi medicei di Pontormo e Bronzino” exhibition, offering 20 monumental tapestries from the 16th Century next Thursday. The Camera della Moda will also be announcing some 20 events proposed by the fashion world all throughout the Expo. [EXPO 2015]

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The Bangladesh Denim Expo will launch May 11-12 in Dhaka. The event will give buyers a taste of what’s to come from the Asian nation’s denim industry; being the second largest exporter of jeans to the EU and the third largest exporter to the U.S. Showcasing 25 exhibitors, the expo looks to better business practices and working conditions in Bangladesh. A fund for a Denim University in Bangladesh will be started with any surplus funds from the show. [BANGLADESH DENIM EXPO]

Italian textiles trade show Milano Unica is being further developed with its first July session scheduled, dedicated to pre-collections (Fall-Winter 2016-2017). The change mimics the fashion calendar and proceeds Munich Fabric Start, who have organized View in July and December. Milano Unica Precollezioni is to be held in Firamilanocity and will run at the same time as Lineapelle. The regular version of Milano Unica will still be held from September 8-10. [FASHION MAG]

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Japan’s Uniqlo has launched a global women’s wear collection inspired by shalwar kameez, the traditional dress of Bangladesh. The tunics, dresses, pants and hands come made in gauze and cotton with delicate embroidery, woven patterns and vibrant hues typical of the ancient garments. Uniqlo’s signature simple lines, clean silhouettes and comfort have been added for modern wearability. The retailer will donate part of the proceeds of the new collection to a program of the Business for Social Responsibility, an international nonprofit organization with a solid record in providing educational support for females in developing nations. [UNIQLO]

Sweden’s Acne Studios has launched a new book called “Peter Schlesinger Sculpture”—a result of Schlesinger’s friendship with Acne founder Jonny Johansson. The edit is a pictorial history of more than 150 of Schlesinger’s work, dating from the late 1980s to the present. In addition, Acne is launching a collection of silk pyjamas, designed by Johansson and based on prints drawn by Schlesinger. [ACNE STUDIOS]

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Hyères 2015 came to a close this week, awarding its Première Vision Grand Prize to designer Annelie Schubert, whose collection featured a simple, refined elegance with a mastery of proportions. The Göttingen-born designer was inspired by aprons with long dresses in the front and short and open in the back, alongside somber toned pieces made from neoprene and tweed. She received 15,000 euros and the opportunity to present her work in New York and in Paris with Première Vision. [WWD]

Kildare Village in Dublin is currently showcasing an exhibition entitled “In the Fold” – displaying the crafts of emerging Irish fashion designers. Held together with Irish Design 2015 (ID2015), the designers taking part are Rory Parnell Mooney, Michael Stewart, Caoimhe Mac Naoise, Richard Malone, Jocelyn Murray Boyne, Oliver Duncan and Laura Kinsella. It is an extension of the In The Fold exhibit already shown at London fashion week this year.[KILDARE VILLAGE]

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The BFC revealed London fashion week will move to the Brewer Street Car park in Soho, just in time for SS16 in September. The Brewer Street Car Park will host the BFC Show Space for the catwalk shows and will also be home to the Designer Showrooms, for those designers who hold exhibitions rather than shows. The show has been held at Somerset House on Strand since 2009. [BFC]

Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen will present her first-ever fashion and art exhibition in the U.S. opening at the High Museum of Art in Fall 2015. Inspired by the arts, sciences, music and philosophy the ‘Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion’ will feature the designers unique haute couture – a combination of traditional craftsmanship and futuristic techniques—next to 3-D-printed fashion. In conjunction with the Groninger Museum, the exhibition will run from November 7 to May 15, before continuing on a North American tour. [THE HIGH]

—By Benjamin Fitzgerald

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